Nineteen days, a rooftop tent and two flat tires. Our Kyrgyzstan road trip had beautiful mountain views, freezing nights, a lake we never reached and some incredibly kind people who helped when things went wrong. I travelled with my sister Amanda and our friend Kirstie. We rented a car in Bishkek with camping equipment and a rooftop tent, then mixed camping with yurt stays as we worked our way around the country. Kirstie did the driving, while Amanda and I took care of setting up camp.This is the route we actually followed, including the places I loved, the plans we changed and the things I would want to know before booking another trip.
Our 19-day Kyrgyzstan road-trip route
Bishkek → Konorchek Canyon → Issyk-Kul’s southern shore → eagle hunter and archery → Skazka / Fairytale Canyon → Barskoon waterfalls → Karakol → Altyn Arashan → Sary-Jaz → Jeti-Oguz → Kol-Suu → back towards Naryn → Tash Rabat → Song-Kul → Bishkek.
We skipped Engilchek and never reached Kol-Suu lake. That second point matters if you are using this as inspiration: our route includes the journey to the Kol-Suu camping area, not a completed visit to the lake. From the camping area its a short hike to the lake.
If you are following our route, allow yourself some flexibility. We certainly needed it.
Renting a car and rooftop tent in Kyrgyzstan
We rented our car through Travel Experts Kyrgyzstan, and they were great to deal with. The car came with camping equipment, and we paid an extra US$15 per night for the rooftop tent. That was the rate for our booking.
One thing I would change is how early we booked. About two months before the trip felt like a reasonable amount of time, but a lot of the cars in Bishkek were already reserved. The company had prices on its website, but our quote was higher. Their explanation was supply and demand as the available cars booked up.
I would still recommend them based on our experience. I would just book earlier and get a direct quote rather than assume the website price is what I would pay. The model makes a difference too, so I cannot give one rental price that would apply to everyone.
They also arranged our border permits and had everything printed and ready when we picked up the car. I was glad that was one job we did not have to figure out along the way.
Day 1:
Konorchek Canyon: red rocks and a very windy first camp
After picking up the car in Bishek we stocked up on groceries and petrol and headed straight to Konorchek Canyon.
The scenery on our first day was amazing. We drove through red-rock canyons, and it felt like such a great start to the trip. Konorchek set a high standard straight away—later, when we visited Jeti-Oguz, these were the formations I found myself comparing it with.
We kept driving until we found a flat area on top of a hill where we could set up camp. The views were magical, but the wind up there was crazy! There was a wind warning for the area, and our exposed spot certainly felt it. Knowing what we know now, I would have camped lower down among the red-rock canyons, where we would have had more protection from the wind.
It was so windy that we could not use the stove, and dinner ended up being eaten in the trunk. All three of us slept in the rooftop tent. It was a memorable first night, although a little more shelter would have made it much more comfortable. The track we used needed a 4x4, so this was not a case of pulling off a straightforward road and finding an easy campsite.
There was also no phone reception where we camped, so download an offline map before heading out here. We used Yandex Maps on the trip. With no signal, you do not want to be trying to load the route once you are already out among the canyons.
Overnight: Wild camping in Konorchek Canyon
Day 2:
Issyk-Kul — a swim and a welcome yurt stay
By the time we reached Issyk-Kul, a swim and a yurt stay were very appealing. We were tired, and having all our camping equipment did not make a yurt any less tempting. We ended up mixing the two throughout the trip, depending on how we felt and what the weather was doing.
Overnight: Issyk-Kul, Tasman Yurt Camp
Day 3:
Issyk Eagle hunting, and archery and Fairytale Canyon
Meeting an eagle hunter on the southern shore of Issyk-Kul
The three of us joined another couple for a visit with an eagle hunter, and I’m really glad we did. He talked us through the whole process, starting with how hunters get their eagles and how they train them. The part that surprised me most was what happens after that. He told us that after a few years, the hunters release the eagles back into the wild. I hadn’t realised that letting them go was part of the tradition.
After the talk, we watched a few demonstrations. I liked hearing the explanation first because I had a better idea of what I was watching. When the hunter showed us how the sport works, I could connect it to what he’d just told us about training the eagles.
We also learned a bit about the tradition of archery on horseback and got to have a go at archery ourselves. After spending part of the visit listening and watching, it was fun to try something for ourselves. We paid 5,000 som for the experience, including archery, before continuing to Fairytale Canyon.
Exploring Fairytale Canyon at our own pace
I liked Skazka, or Fairytale Canyon. It was fairly busy, at least compared with most of the places we’d been so far. We’d read online that you could camp there, so I was curious to see how far we could get with the car. When we visited, there was a gate where we paid an entrance fee. We could drive as far as the main area, where a barrier stopped cars from going any farther into the canyon.
You could still keep exploring on foot. Most of the walking was fairly easy, with a steeper climb if you wanted a wider view. I liked being able to wander among the formations without committing to a big hike.
You might be able to carry a tent farther in on foot, but we didn’t find out whether overnight camping was allowed. If I were planning to camp there, I’d ask at the gate before carrying my gear in.
Overnight: Wild camping at the bottom of Barskoon Falls
Day 4
Barskoon waterfalls
We camped near Barskoon so we could get a reasonably early start on the waterfalls the next day. All three of us made it to the first one, but Amanda was not feeling well, so Kirstie and I continued to waterfall two.
That had been my minimum goal. I really wanted to see at least the second waterfall. But once I got there, I started thinking about the third. I am not very good at stopping halfway when I know there is more to see, so I carried on alone.
There was a good path, but it became steep, and it was incredibly hot. The first two waterfalls had been okay to reach; this part took more effort.
I was glad I kept going. The third was probably one of the nicer waterfalls I visited in Kyrgyzstan and worth the sweaty climb. Unfortunately, my phone died before I reached it, so I have the memory of that final view rather than footage to show you.
Overnight: Yurt camp in Karakol
Day 5-6
Karakol — a flat tyre, clean laundry and food I did not have to cook
Karakol was meant to be a one-night stop. Then we got a flat tyre and spent a good portion of the morning getting it fixed, which turned one night into two.
I ended up being glad we had the extra night. Karakol felt lively, and there were so many good restaurants to choose from. After cooking our own meals on the road, I loved being able to go out for dinner. We stayed at a yurt camp and got our laundry done while we were there, too.
One of my favourite things about Karakol was being able to go to the beach for sunset. The beach was busy, but I still found it relaxing to sit by the water and watch the sun go down. That was what I liked about Karakol. It had the energy of a city, and I could still have a slow evening by the lake.
Overnight: Yurt camp in Karakol
Day 6-8
Altyn Arashan — a little hiking help and three slower days
Before setting out for Altyn Arashan, we paid to leave our car at a guesthouse. We had heard reports of cars being broken into at the hiking car park and camping equipment being stolen. We did not see that happen ourselves, but with all our gear in the car, we chose to play it safe.
The guesthouse drove us to the start of the trail, and we set off on foot. We hiked about halfway before getting a vehicle lift for the rest. It was really steep, and I cannot pretend we walked the whole thing!
We spent two nights there. Kirstie went horse riding towards Ala-Kul, while Amanda and I took the more leisurely option. We hung out, visited the yurt camp’s hot springs and enjoyed shorter trails around the area.
After Barskoon, I was quite happy with that balance. I did not need another big climb to appreciate being up in the mountains.
Overnight: Yurt camp in Altyn Arashan
Day 8
Sary-Jaz — one night was nowhere near enough
If I could move some time around in this itinerary, Sary-Jaz is where I would add it.
We stayed for just one night, and it became one of my favourite places on the trip. The area was gorgeous: green meadows, horses, mountain views and that feeling of being further away from everything. At night, the dark skies made the stars amazing.
Even here, though, the roads were being worked on. We had seen roadworks in so many places that it felt like the whole country was redoing its roads. It was interesting to arrive somewhere that felt remote and still find signs of things changing.
Mostly, I wish we had given ourselves more time to enjoy it. This was somewhere I wanted to stay, take in the views and explore a bit more, rather than leave after one night.
Overnight: Wild camping in Sary-Jaz
Day 9
Jeti-Oguz — more than the red rocks
After Sary-Jaz, we camped at Jeti-Oguz for a night. The red-rock formations were not as impressive to me as Konorchek Canyon, but I really liked the area around them.There were beautiful fields and shorter walks, and we did an easy hike to a waterfall. Those ended up being the things I enjoyed most. I was glad we stayed overnight and saw more of the area instead of only stopping for the famous rocks.
Overnight: Wild camping in Jeti-Oguz
Day 10
Naryn — an overnight stop before Kol-Suu
After Jeti-Oguz, we spent a night in Naryn before continuing towards Kol-Suu. At this point, it was simply a stop along the way. We did not yet know we would be coming back for another two nights to deal with the tyre.We headed to Naryn to break up the drive, and get more groceries and supplies. Plus hopefully find somewhere we could shower.
Overnight: Naryn
Day 11
Kol-Suu — deciding the lake would have to wait
At Kol-Suu, we camped outside a yurt camp. They let us use their toilets, which we really appreciated. The weather, unfortunately, was less accommodating.
The wind kept us awake through the night. We honestly thought the rooftop tent might collapse, and we debated taking it down before morning. It is difficult to feel particularly enthusiastic about a hike when you have spent the night wondering whether your tent is going to stay up.
After breakfast, we looked at the weather. It was rainy and foggy, and we thought there was a good chance we would walk to the lake without getting much of a view anyway. So we decided to head back and see if we could reach Naryn earlier for a rest.
I was disappointed to miss it. But after that night, leaving felt like the right decision for us. Kol-Suu remains the lake I went towards, rather than the lake I actually saw.
From here the plan was to of to cash Rabat directly, but...
Overnight: wild camping at Kol-Suu
Day 12-13
Naryn - Impromptu detour
We had passed the checkpoint on the return drive when the road began feeling bumpier than it should. It was a washboard road, so we already expected a rough ride, but this felt different enough that we stopped to check.
There it was: flat tyre number two.
We were working out how to change it when a truck heading towards Kol-Suu stopped. They did not speak English, and we did not speak Russian or Kyrgyz, but they went out of their way to help us get the tyre sorted.
Then they invited us to their house. The wife offered for us to stay the night while we waited to get a new tyre, and said we could shower there too. It was such a generous offer. Eventually, we compromised and agreed to come for tea.
We had set off hoping for an uncomplicated drive and an early rest. That was not what happened, but meeting people who were so willing to help is one of the things I remember most about the trip.
We ended up spending two nights back in Naryn getting everything sorted. This time, we needed a new tyre, not just a quick repair, and had to have it fitted to the rim from the blown tyre. Between our night before Kol-Suu and these two nights afterwards, we spent three nights in Naryn altogether. That had certainly not been the plan when we set off hoping for an early rest.
Overnight: Yurt camp in Naryn (option to camp and use showers there)
Day 13-15
Tash Rabat — lovely views and surprisingly memorable toilets
We had been warned that Tash Rabat was super remote and that we should really stock up on food and fuel. So finding a petrol station not too far away was a surprise.
There was a point where cars could not go further into the valley on our visit. To continue exploring beyond that, you needed to walk or go on horseback. We explored a bit on foot, but mostly this became somewhere to slow down.
We stayed for two nights outside a yurt camp. The owner let us camp for free and use his toilets, which were some of the best we had used in a long time. I realise toilets might seem an odd thing to remember about a beautiful mountain area, but after a while on the road, you appreciate these things!
We relaxed, enjoyed the views and did not try to fill every day. On our last day, we paid for hot showers and charged all our electronics before heading off again. Those little bits of comfort made a difference.
Overnight: Wild camping in Tash Rabat
Days 15–17:
Song-Kul — beautiful, enormous and absolutely freezing
By the time we headed to Song-Kul, two flat tyres had made us a little nervous about the roads. We chose a longer route using more travelled roads. I am not certain which pass we took, so I would rather leave the name out than send you the wrong way.
The lake itself was huge. Looking across it, it honestly felt more like an ocean.
We stayed for two nights, and it was so cold that we chose a yurt instead of the tent. We still had all our cooking equipment, though, and wanted to make our own meals to keep the cost down. That took some asking around. Not every yurt camp would allow it, so we drove around the lake until we found one that said yes.
It made our stay really affordable, but the yurt did not entirely solve the cold. Even with the heater on, I was freezing. I was very glad I had packed layers, especially my travel fleece and wool socks. Those had already saved me on cold nights in the tent.
The sunsets were beautiful, and the stars were amazing. Song-Kul gave us a lovely final stop, but I would not have complained about a little more warmth.
Overnight: Song-kul (yurt camp or wild camping)
Days 18:
Back in Bishek
We drove straight back to Bishkek from Song-Kul and explored a market once we arrived. We also took a short morning trip to Ala Archa National Park. Its about an Hour from downtown Bishek. They are building a lot in the area so make sure to wear proper covered shoes or they won't let you in to do the hikes.
There are different hikes in the area.I did a relatively easy one to a waterfall but I saw a lot of people hiking in with tents and rappelling ropes.
Overnight: Guest-house in Bishek
Days 19:
Car return and departure
The following day: saying goodbye and heading to KazakhstanKirstie left the next day, while Amanda and I continued by bus to Kazakhstan. Almaty was our first stop, followed by a flight to Astana.That was the end of our Kyrgyzstan road trip: 19 days of driving, camping, yurt stays, cooking, hiking and changing plans when we needed to.
What I would do differently—and what I would pack again
I would book the car earlier. Our experience was a useful reminder that two months ahead does not necessarily mean plenty of choice, especially when you want a particular vehicle and camping setup. I would get the final quote directly and confirm what is included.
I would also give Sary-Jaz longer. That is the clearest itinerary change I would make.
More generally, I would keep some space for weather, repairs and days when we simply wanted to stay somewhere a little longer.
The fleece and wool socks would absolutely come again. We travelled in August, with hot days, but that did not stop nights from being freezing. Song-Kul was cold even in a heated yurt.
I would arrange the permits through the rental company again too. Having the printed paperwork waiting at collection was easy. If you are visiting border areas, ask your arranger to check that the permit covers your actual destinations and dates.
One thing that surprised me was how much infrastructure we found. We carried extra fuel containers but never came close to needing them on our route. Petrol stations were reasonably placed, and many looked new. Even in places we had been told were very remote, we still saw people and roadworks. That does not tell you what every route will be like, but it was different from what I had expected before arriving.
For communication, Yandex Translate was useful. Before setting off, check which offline language options your app supports, download what you need and test it without a connection. Yandex Maps helped us find restaurants and petrol stations, but I would compare its routes rather than trust the first result. Once, it suggested a 22-hour drive for me while Amanda found a route that took four hours. If an unfamiliar shortcut looks questionable, ask locally or check with the rental company.
Finally, I would keep the mix of camping and yurt stays. Having our own gear gave us options, but clean laundry, a hot shower or a meal someone else had cooked could improve a day considerably. Ask before camping beside a yurt camp, using its facilities or cooking your own food; the arrangements we were offered were different from place to place.
What stayed with me
Sary-Jaz is the place I wish we had stayed longer. Karakol is where I appreciated delicious food and a break from cooking. Barskoon is where I kept climbing because I could not quite bring myself to stop at waterfall two.
And somewhere on the road back from Kol-Suu, a flat tyre brought us to people who helped us despite the language barrier, then offered us a bed, a shower and tea.
That is the Kyrgyzstan trip I remember. Gorgeous views, some uncomfortable nights, plans that changed, and people who made a difficult day much better.
