Penguins, whales, the Drake Passage, and everything that surprised me about visiting Antarctica.
Antarctica is one of those places that almost doesn't seem real. You see pictures of enormous glaciers, penguins waddling across the snow, and endless white landscapes, but it's hard to imagine what actually being there would feel like.
And honestly, I had no idea what to expect.I deliberately avoided researching Antarctica before our trip. I didn't want to have a list of places I needed to see or experiences I needed to tick off. I wanted to arrive and discover it for myself.
And I'm so glad I did!
What I found was a place that was far more mountainous, colourful, and full of wildlife than I ever imagined. The ice was an unbelievable shade of blue, penguin colonies smelled absolutely terrible, and whales came so close to our little Zodiac boat that I could have reached out and touched them.
But what made this trip even more special was that I got to experience it with my sister, Amanda.We spent 10 days on an expedition cruise with Intrepid Travel, and it turned out to be one of the most incredible trips I've ever taken.
Why Antarctica? Our First Sister Trip in Years
At the time, I was living in China, and COVID restrictions had made international travel incredibly difficult for years.
For someone who loves traveling as much as I do, being unable to leave the country was frustrating.So when travel finally opened up again, my sister Amanda and I decided it was time for another adventure together.
It had been years since we'd been able to take a proper sister trip, and apparently, we decided that Antarctica would be a good way to make up for lost time!
We booked our expedition only a few months before departure, which is actually pretty last-minute for a destination like Antarctica.
We traveled at the beginning of February, during the Antarctic summer, and chose a 10-day expedition with Intrepid Travel.
I would highly recommend them based on our experience.The trip included approximately two days crossing the Drake Passage in each direction, leaving us with several days to explore Antarctica itself.
And unlike a traditional cruise, where you might have a set itinerary of ports and activities, Antarctica is a completely different experience.
Here, the weather and wildlife decide what happens.Something I quickly learned to love.
Starting in Ushuaia: How We Found a Great Antarctica Cruise Deal
Our expedition departed from Ushuaia, Argentina, the southernmost city in Argentina and one of the main gateways to Antarctica.
If you're planning an Antarctica cruise, I'd definitely recommend giving yourself some extra time in Ushuaia before your ship departs.Flights can be delayed or cancelled, and you really don't want to risk missing an expedition that costs thousands of dollars!But there is another reason to spend time in Ushuaia.
You can sometimes find some incredible last-minute deals on Antarctica cruises.
Antarctica has a reputation for being an extremely expensive destination, and it definitely can be. But what you see advertised online isn't necessarily what you'll end up paying.
Amanda and I contacted a travel agent based in Ushuaia who knew the different expedition companies and available departures.Through them, we found a fantastic deal with Intrepid.
We paid approximately $5,000 USD per person for our 10-day expedition.
Our cabin would normally have been advertised from around $12,000, so the discount was substantial.
If you have flexible dates, you can also arrive in Ushuaia and ask around at the local travel agencies.
Of course, there's no guarantee you'll find an available cabin, especially if you have very specific dates. But if you're flexible, it's absolutely worth investigating.
For us, contacting a local agent in advance worked out incredibly well.
Crossing the Drake Passage: It Wasn't as Bad as I Expected... At First
Before going to Antarctica, one thing you'll probably hear about is the Drake Passage.
This stretch of ocean separates South America from Antarctica and is famous for its rough seas.
Some people experience the relatively calm "Drake Lake," while others get the much rougher "Drake Shake."
We actually got to experience a bit of both!
The Journey There Was Surprisingly Relaxing
The first two days crossing the Drake Passage were relatively calm.
I didn't find it nearly as bad as I thought it might be.
One thing I found really helpful was going outside on the deck and looking at the horizon. Rather than staying inside worrying about getting seasick, I actually spent quite a bit of time enjoying the journey.
And there was plenty to see!
We spotted whales, seabirds, and even some penguins from the ship.That was such a great way to start the expedition. We hadn't even reached Antarctica yet, and we were already seeing wildlife.
The expedition team also organized lectures about the wildlife, the history of Antarctica, and the environment we were heading into.
All of these were optional, but I really enjoyed having the opportunity to learn more about what we were about to experience.
Coming Back Was a Different Story!
Unfortunately, the Drake Passage wasn't quite as friendly on our return journey.
A storm was approaching, so the captain made the decision to leave Antarctica earlier than planned to try to avoid the worst of the weather.
We headed back at full speed, and the crossing was rough.The ship was rocking a lot, and this time I definitely got seasick.
It was a completely different experience from the journey there!
But this really highlights something important about traveling to Antarctica.You can't control the weather, and sometimes plans need to change for everyone's safety.
Antarctica Is Nothing Like a Normal Cruise
One of the biggest things I learned on this trip is that you really shouldn't get attached to a specific itinerary.
Every evening, the expedition team would give us a briefing about the following day's plans.
They'd explain where we were hoping to go, whether we'd be doing landings or Zodiac cruises, and what kind of wildlife we might encounter.
But those plans could completely change overnight.
You could go to bed expecting to visit one location and wake up to discover the weather had changed and you were going somewhere else entirely.
I noticed that some passengers had researched particular landing sites and were disappointed when we couldn't visit them.
Personally, I think avoiding all that research beforehand actually made my experience better.
I didn't have a checklist.
I was just excited to be in Antarctica.And every day brought something new.
When Seals Cancelled Our Landing
One day, we were supposed to go ashore, but a group of seals had decided that our landing site was the perfect place to relax.
They were resting right where the Zodiacs would normally bring us onto land.
The expedition team went to investigate alternative landing spots, but those were also occupied by wildlife.
Because we needed to maintain at least five metres of distance from the animals, there wasn't a way for everyone to safely get on and off the boats without disturbing them.
So the landing was cancelled.And honestly, I really liked that.
In Antarctica, the animals are the priority.
We're the visitors.
If going ashore would disturb the wildlife, then we simply don't go.
I think that's exactly how Antarctic tourism should work.
A Change of Plans That Turned Out Beautifully
Rather than simply cancelling everything, the captain arranged an alternative scenic cruise through the Lemaire Channel.
And wow, the scenery was incredible!
We cruised between enormous snow-covered mountains with ice and glaciers all around us.
We also got to see an Argentina research base.
It wasn't the day we'd originally planned, but it ended up being another fantastic experience.
This was something I really appreciated about Intrepid and the expedition team. They made a real effort to give us as much time exploring Antarctica as possible, while still respecting the weather and wildlife.
And to me, that's exactly what you want from an expedition company.
The Penguins Were Amazing... But the Smell!
Obviously, seeing penguins in Antarctica was one of the highlights.
But there's something nobody really prepares you for.
Penguin colonies stink!
And I mean REALLY stink.
I remember being able to smell the colony long before we could even see the penguins.
You see all these gorgeous photographs of penguins standing in pristine white snow, looking adorable.
What you don't get from those pictures is the smell!It's one of those things I'll remember forever.
And they're noisy, too. There is so much activity happening around a colony, with penguins calling out to one another and waddling around.
Penguin Highways
One of the things I loved most was watching the penguins using their little highways.These are paths that penguins repeatedly use to move through the snow, often between their colonies and the water.
Once you start noticing them, they're everywhere!
You can sit and watch the penguins following these tracks, heading off to wherever penguins need to go.
It's such a simple thing, but I found it fascinating.
That's what made seeing wildlife in Antarctica so special.
You're not watching animals in an enclosure or at a tourist attraction.
You're observing them going about their lives in their natural environment.
And sometimes you're the one who has to move out of their way!
My Favourite Moment: Whales Right Beside Our Zodiac
If I had to choose my absolute favourite moment from the entire Antarctica expedition, it would have to be one of our Zodiac cruises. We were out exploring in our small inflatable boat when whales decided to approach us.
And they came unbelievably close. I'm talking close enough that I could genuinely have reached out and touched them. Of course, nobody actually did! But being in this tiny Zodiac, surrounded by Antarctic scenery, while these enormous wild animals came right up to us was something I'll never forget.
The best part was that we weren't trying to attract them. They simply decided to approach our boat.
And there we were, lucky enough to experience it.
It was genuinely magical. I've been fortunate enough to have some incredible wildlife encounters during my travels, but this one is definitely near the top of the list.
I also loved that I got to share that moment with Amanda. It's one of those experiences we'll be talking about for years.
The Landscape: So Much More Than Ice and Snow
Before visiting Antarctica, I imagined a lot of white.
White snow, white ice, and maybe some penguins wandering around.
But what surprised me was just how dramatic and colourful the landscape actually was.
First, there were the mountains.
I hadn't realised how mountainous Antarctica would be!
There were enormous snow-covered peaks rising out of the water, with glaciers stretching between them.
It was absolutely beautiful.
And then there was the blue.
Some of the ice was such an intense shade of blue that it almost didn't look real. It genuinely felt like something out of a movie.
Even when we weren't doing a landing or a Zodiac excursion, just standing outside and looking at the scenery was amazing.
There was always something incredible to see.
What Are Zodiac Excursions Like in Antarctica?
A big part of our expedition involved exploring in Zodiacs. These are small inflatable boats that take passengers from the expedition ship to landing sites or around the surrounding waters.
Because they are much smaller than the main ship, you get a completely different perspective. You're sitting much closer to the water, surrounded by ice and mountains, and sometimes wildlife appears right beside you.
As we discovered with the whales!
On our expedition, passengers were divided into groups. Sometimes one group would go ashore while the other explored by Zodiac, and then we'd switch. This gave everyone a chance to experience both. The Zodiac rides could be chilly, especially when the wind picked up or water sprayed into the boat.
Antarctica actually wasn't as cold as I'd imagined all the time, but being out on the water could feel very different from being on the ship.
I'd definitely recommend dressing in layers.
And remember, Zodiac excursions are also weather-dependent.
You might have a beautiful, calm ride one day and have plans changed the next. That's just part of the adventure.
Taking the Polar Plunge in Antarctica
Of course, when the opportunity came to jump into freezing Antarctic water, I wasn't going to miss it!
The famous polar plunge is exactly what it sounds like. You jump into some very cold water.
And people approached it very differently. One guy actually brought a 7 mm wetsuit specifically for the plunge. Meanwhile, I just went in my bathing suit.
And honestly?
It was chilly, but it was fine!I think it really depends on your tolerance for cold water. I'm not saying it was warm, but I also didn't find it nearly as awful as some people might expect. It's definitely one of those things that's worth doing if you're comfortable with it.
After all, how many opportunities are you going to have to say you've gone swimming in Antarctica?
Life on Board: Not Quite What I Expected
Another thing that surprised me was the mix of passengers onboard. I hadn't really thought about what kind of people would book an Antarctica expedition. But there was such a wide range of ages. You had younger travelers, older travelers, and everyone in between.
I really liked that. The atmosphere on the ship was lively and fun, and there were plenty of opportunities to socialize with other passengers. During our time at sea, the expedition team offered optional lectures covering everything from penguins to Antarctic history. There were also activities onboard and a bar where people could relax and spend time together.
I actually really enjoyed the social side of the expedition.
Everyone was there because they wanted to experience this incredible destination, and there was always something to talk about after a day of exploring. The days crossing the Drake Passage didn't feel like wasted travel days. They were part of the experience.
How Much Does an Antarctica Expedition Cost?
One of the biggest things stopping people from visiting Antarctica is the price.
And yes, Antarctica can be very expensive. But our experience showed me that it doesn't necessarily have to cost as much as the advertised prices suggest.
Amanda and I paid around $5,000 USD each for our 10-day expedition with Intrepid. We got a really good deal through a travel agent in Ushuaia, and our cabin would normally have been advertised at a much higher price.
That's still a lot of money, of course. But for a 10-day expedition to one of the most remote destinations on Earth, I thought it was absolutely worth it.
How I'd Recommend Booking Antarctica
If you're planning your own Antarctica expedition, I'd recommend doing a little more than simply looking at the prices on the expedition companies' websites.
Here's what I'd do:
Contact a travel agent in Ushuaia. They often know which expedition companies have cabins available and where you might be able to find a better deal.
Be flexible with departure dates. You may have more opportunities to find discounted cabins if you aren't tied to one specific sailing.
Consider arriving in Ushuaia and asking around. If you have plenty of time and can travel at short notice, this may be an option.
Build in extra days before departure. Flight disruptions are a real possibility, and you don't want to miss your ship.
Don't become too attached to a specific itinerary. No matter how much you pay, the weather and wildlife will still decide where you can go.
Last-minute deals aren't guaranteed, and you should compare what's included before booking.
But I absolutely think it's worth contacting local agents before committing to a full-price expedition. It worked brilliantly for us.
Would I Recommend Intrepid Travel for Antarctica?
Absolutely.
I had a really positive experience with Intrepid and would happily recommend them. What stood out to me was how the expedition team balanced giving us the best possible experience with protecting the wildlife and respecting the conditions.
When landings were cancelled, they tried to find alternatives. When the weather changed, they adjusted the itinerary. And when seals decided to occupy our landing site, we respected their space. The optional lectures and activities also made the time onboard enjoyable.
And the lively mix of passengers was something I hadn't expected but really appreciated. For me, the whole experience felt like a proper expedition rather than just a cruise.
Final Thoughts: Is Antarctica Worth Visiting?
Antarctica absolutely blew my mind. I went without really knowing what to expect, and I think that was one of the best decisions I made.
I didn't have a list of famous places I needed to visit. I wasn't disappointed when we couldn't reach a particular landing site. I was just happy to be there, seeing whatever Antarctica decided to show us.
And what an experience it was. From the incredibly blue ice and towering mountains to the smelly penguin colonies and whales approaching our Zodiac, there were so many moments I'll never forget.
Even the rough Drake Passage crossing on the way home is part of the story now! But more than anything, I'm grateful that I got to share the experience with Amanda.
After years of not being able to travel together, our first sister trip was to Antarctica. And that's going to be a pretty difficult trip to top!If you're thinking about visiting Antarctica, my biggest piece of advice is to go with an open mind.
Don't get too attached to a specific itinerary, don't expect everything to go according to plan, and definitely don't underestimate how bad penguin colonies can smell. Because sometimes the best moments are the ones you never could have planned.
And for me, Antarctica was full of them.
Watch My Antarctica Expedition on YouTube
Want to see what Antarctica is actually like?
I documented our expedition on my YouTube channel, China and Beyond, including our journey across the Drake Passage, wildlife encounters, Zodiac excursions, and the polar plunge.
Antarctica Expedition: What Is Antarctica Really Like?
Follow our expedition from Ushuaia to Antarctica and experience the scenery and wildlife along the way.
What Surprised Me About Antarctica
From the incredible blue ice to penguin highways and unexpected wildlife encounters, here are some of the things that surprised me most about Antarctica.