Did you know that one of China's largest provincial-level regions is also one of its least populated?
Qinghai (青海) covers approximately 722,000 square kilometres, yet has fewer than six million residents. That's an average of only around eight people per square kilometre .To put that into perspective, imagine a place filled with enormous mountains, endless open landscapes, and roads that seem to stretch on forever.
Sounds like the perfect road trip, right?
Well, yes... and no.
My advice
I spent three days exploring Qinghai over a long weekend in June, renting a car from Xining and heading out to discover two of the province's most famous attractions: Qinghai Lake and Chaka Salt Lake. And while the scenery was absolutely beautiful, the reality of traveling around Qinghai was a little different from what I expected. Between rough roads, unexpected checkpoints, and drives that took two or three times longer than Apple Maps suggested, what was supposed to be a relaxing long weekend turned into a surprisingly exhausting adventure.
Would I recommend visiting Qinghai?
Absolutely. But I would definitely do a few things differently next time. Here's my honest experience exploring Qinghai, including what was worth visiting, the challenges we encountered, and the things you should know before planning your own road trip.
Where Is Qinghai, China?
Qinghai is located in northwestern China, on the northeastern edge of the Tibetan Plateau. It's a region known for its vast mountain landscapes, high-altitude lakes, grasslands, and incredible natural scenery. Unlike China's major cities, where you can easily travel between attractions using high-speed trains and public transportation, Qinghai is a destination where distances really matter.
The provincial capital, Xining (西宁), is a common starting point for exploring the region. For our trip, we rented a car in Xining and planned to visit Qinghai Lake and Chaka Salt Lake over three days. On paper, it looked like a manageable long-weekend itinerary. In reality, the driving took up far more of our time than expected.And that's probably the biggest thing I would warn anyone about before visiting Qinghai.
Renting a Car in Xining: What You Need to Know
We decided to rent a car from Xining because we wanted the freedom to explore at our own pace. I generally love road trips because you can stop whenever you want, enjoy the scenery, and discover places you might otherwise miss. And Qinghai certainly has plenty of beautiful scenery to enjoy along the way. Mountains seemed to surround us everywhere we went, and the landscapes were completely different from the busy cities I was used to seeing in China.
However, there was one major problem. The driving times were incredibly unpredictable. The Roads took much longer than expected.
One of the biggest surprises of our Qinghai road trip was how long it took to get anywhere. We would check the map, see an estimated driving time, and plan our day around it. But those estimates were rarely accurate for our journey. Some routes ended up taking two or even three times longer than expected. Why? A combination of poor road conditions, particularly outside the main areas, and checkpoints along the way.The roads weren't always in great condition, which meant we couldn't travel as quickly as we had planned. And then there were the checkpoints, which added even more time to our journey. What looked like a relatively straightforward drive could suddenly take most of the day. By the end of the trip, we had spent far more time sitting in the car than we wanted.
My advice
If you're planning a Qinghai road trip, don't rely entirely on the driving times shown on your map. Build extra time into your itinerary and avoid scheduling too many attractions in one day. Also, if you're visiting as a foreign traveler, check that you meet China's driving licence requirements before renting a vehicle. An international driving permit alone is not sufficient for driving in mainland China.
Qinghai Lake: Beautiful, but You Don't Need All Day
Our first major destination was Qinghai Lake (青海湖). Qinghai Lake is China's largest inland saltwater lake and one of the province's most famous natural attractions. Surrounded by mountains and enormous open landscapes, it's easy to understand why so many people include it in their Qinghai itinerary. The scenery was beautiful. There's something special about being surrounded by mountains and looking out over such a huge expanse of water. It feels completely different from visiting a lake in a busy tourist town. However, I would say that Qinghai Lake is somewhere you can enjoy without necessarily dedicating an entire day to it. For me, it was a beautiful stop along our road trip, but I didn't feel the need to spend hours and hours there. Of course, if you want to explore different areas around the lake, take photographs, or simply enjoy a slower-paced visit, you could easily spend more time. But if you're working with a limited itinerary, I would prioritize spending more time at Chaka Salt Lake.
Is Qinghai Lake Worth Visiting?
Yes, especially if you're already traveling through the area. The scenery is lovely, and the surrounding mountains make it a beautiful place to stop .However, I personally found Chaka Salt Lake more interesting, so that's where I would recommend allowing more time.
Chaka Salt Lake: The Highlight of My Qinghai Trip
If there's one place I would tell you not to miss in Qinghai, it's Chaka Salt Lake (茶卡盐湖). This was easily one of my favorite places during the trip. Often called the Mirror of the Sky, Chaka Salt Lake is famous for its reflective salt flats, where shallow water can create incredible reflections of the surrounding mountains and sky. And it really is beautiful. Unlike Qinghai Lake, where I felt a shorter visit was enough, Chaka Salt Lake is somewhere I would recommend spending several hours. There's so much to see, and it's the kind of place where you don't want to feel rushed. Between the enormous open landscapes, the unusual salt formations, and the surrounding mountain scenery, it feels completely different from many other destinations in China.
How Much Time Do You Need at Chaka Salt Lake?
I would recommend allowing at least three to four hours, and potentially longer if you enjoy photography or want to explore the different areas. The scenic area is large, and you'll want enough time to appreciate it without constantly watching the clock. Depending on the weather and water conditions, you may be able to see the famous mirror-like reflections. However, don't expect perfect reflections every day. Wind, water levels, and lighting can all affect the experience.
Tips for Visiting Chaka Salt Lake
Allow several hours rather than treating it as a quick stop. Wear comfortable shoes suitable for walking. Bring sunglasses and sunscreen because the high-altitude sunlight can be intense. Pack warm layers, even if you're visiting in June. Check current ticket prices and opening hours before visiting. Give yourself enough flexibility to enjoy the scenery without rushing.
My recommendation: If you're deciding where to spend more time on a short Qinghai trip, I would choose Chaka Salt Lake over Qinghai Lake. It was absolutely worth visiting.
Don't Skip the Food Around Chaka Salt Lake!
One thing I really enjoyed about our visit to Chaka was exploring the nearby town and trying the local food. Sometimes when you're traveling, it's easy to focus entirely on the famous attractions and forget to explore the places around them. But the food near Chaka Salt Lake was fantastic! I would highly recommend taking some time to explore the town and try the street food rather than simply visiting the salt lake and immediately driving away. We found some amazing food in the area, and it was a nice break from all the driving. You don't necessarily need a detailed restaurant itinerary. Sometimes the best thing to do is simply walk around, see what's being cooked, and try something that looks good. For me, these smaller experiences are part of what makes traveling in China so enjoyable.
Travel tip: If you're visiting Chaka Salt Lake, plan some time for a meal in Chaka Town before continuing your journey.
Finding Hotels in Qinghai as a Foreigner: A Frustrating Experience
One thing I definitely wasn't expecting was how difficult it would be to find accommodation. We didn't book one hotel for the entire trip. Instead, we stayed at different hotels along the route as we traveled. Normally, this gives you more flexibility, especially during a road trip. However, we repeatedly encountered hotels that told us they couldn't accept foreign guests. This was particularly frustrating because China had already introduced measures intended to stop hotels from refusing foreign travellers simply because they lacked special qualifications to accommodate them. Yet during our trip, we still came across multiple hotels that refused to let us stay. As a result, I found myself calling hotels before making reservations to confirm that they would actually accept a foreign passport. It became another unexpected part of the trip planning.
What to Pack for Qinghai
Check the weather forecast for me I needed:
Warm layers: Don't assume summer means warm weather.
A windproof jacket: Useful around the lakes and open landscapes.
Lip balm: An absolute must.
Moisturizer: Your skin will thank you.
Sunscreen: The high altitude means strong UV exposure.
Sunglasses: Particularly useful at Chaka Salt Lake.
Comfortable walking shoes: For exploring the scenic areas.
Water and snacks: Especially for long drives.
Qinghai's high elevation is another thing to consider. Some travelers may experience altitude-related symptoms, particularly if arriving from much lower elevations.Give yourself time to adjust, stay hydrated, and avoid pushing yourself too hard if you feel unwell.
How Many Days Do You Need in Qinghai?
We visited Qinghai for three days over a long weekend. And while we managed to see Qinghai Lake and Chaka Salt Lake, I wouldn't recommend trying to rush through the same itinerary if you have the option to stay longer. The driving was exhausting. We spent so much time on the road that it sometimes felt like we were constantly moving rather than properly enjoying the places we had come to see. If I were planning the trip again, I would definitely add more days.
Final Thoughts: A Beautiful but Exhausting Qinghai Road Trip
Qinghai was one of those trips that was both beautiful and frustrating. The landscapes were incredible, Chaka Salt Lake was amazing, and I loved seeing another side of China. But honestly? It was an exhausting long weekend.Between the unpredictable driving times, poor road conditions, and accommodation difficulties, we spent much more time dealing with logistics than I would have liked.
Would I visit Qinghai again?
Yes.
But next time, I'd give myself more time, plan fewer activities each day, and focus on enjoying the journey rather than trying to fit everything into one long weekend. Because sometimes the best way to explore a place isn't to see as much as possible.It's to slow down and actually experience it.
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